Farmers harvest gorgon fruit in Wuxi. [Photo provided to en.wuxi.gov.cn]

As Wuxi swelters through the peak of summer, a prized local harvest has begun, bringing relief to tables across the city as the annual harvest of gorgon fruit gets its formal start.

Harvesting begins at daybreak. Farmers wade into the water in rubber outfits and gloves, bending low to reach beneath the broad, emerald-green leaves. Using bamboo knives, they carefully cut the bulbous seed heads from their stems.

A bulbous seed head. [Photo provided to en.wuxi.gov.cn]

The process from field to table is painstaking. Each batch must pass through more than a dozen steps: selecting the pods, cracking the hard outer shells, peeling the brown skins, sifting out broken grains, and rinsing in clean water. The result is a handful of creamy-white, pearl-like kernels — the reward of considerable time and labor.

Gorgon fruit has long held a place of honor in the culinary traditions of the Jiangnan region and is often called the "first of the eight aquatic delicacies".

A bowl of gorgon fruit with sweet-scented osmanthus. [Photo provided to en.wuxi.gov.cn]

The nuts are best handled with a light touch. Overcooking diminishes their texture; the preferred method is a brief boil in water with a touch of rock sugar, finished with a sprinkle of dried osmanthus flowers.

For savory preparations, chefs often stir-fry the kernels quickly with shrimp, or combine them with lily bulbs and celery for a clean, refreshing dish that suits the sweltering weather.

As summer reaches its peak, locals are welcoming the seasonal return of this aquatic gem — a taste, they say, of an authentic Jiangnan summer in every spoonful.